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Hey Ron Is it true that grades kill locomotives? I was going to use 4% for my 4x8 layout to get some elevation in a small space but my train store advised against it saying it would strip out the gears in the locomotives.

Thanks RTNT, I'm usually not one to buy a diesel with sound but unfortunately no one else has a Southern Heritage ES44AC. Replacing 4 of my Kato UP ES44ACs with 2 of these. Will look amazing pulling my Southern Heritage freight on the club layout.

One of the best "step-by-step" videos regarding downloading and adjusting ESU decoders. Well done!!

8:10 - Just the tip of it... C'mon, don't be afraid, it should be covered if you want to use it. You'll see it's gonna be good for you too, baby... Apart from the cheap jokes, take care of the temperature if the iron has temperature control on it. If the iron is not warm enough, solder just won't melt. But if it's too hot, the molten solder on the tip of the iron will get oxidized quickly and it will damage the tip also in a short time.

Handy info 👍🏻

I assume you need to draw your transition on both sides of the curve?

Looks great, thanks for sharing this.

Would have been perfect with a photo of the kitten at the end of the short

Hey Ron JonMac from downunder here. I'm a recent retiree from the transport sector with limited free space - isn't that a universal issue with modelers LOL? Having limited space means of course I chose N scale mean lots of bang for my bucks. For a start I do love operations but also a bit of railfanning so I'm setting up a double track passenger service for the latter and a dedicated freight operations service for the core of my layout. It's basically a 9X6X3 L shaped layout with a solid framework holding the baseboards. For me freight operations are about a complete service for customers so I've included road transport access for container and heavy road transport vehicles with rail access feeding them. So I suppose a scaled down intermodal design to suit my circumstances. Keep up the good work mate.

Thank-you Ron for another great tutorial.

Okay what about the regular international coupler?

The cap is a great idea.

Would have been way easier and faster to lay down the yellow stripe wide first. cover it with one of the size tapes. paint the gray, pull the tape off....waaalah

Hi Ron & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Ron & Friends Randy & Ron You u OK MY Friends Randy & New Video please and Thanks

Any suggestions on how to speedmatch without an Accutrack II as they are now discontinued and unobtanium?

Great tips, just getting back to model railroading. Starting with my old O gauge then HO and finally N gauge . Thanks again !!

I can understand why you ditched the sound on these locos as you're modelling N scale. I wouldn't bother with sound myself if I were modelling N scale unless it was factory fitted, my eyesight, fingers and sanity wouldn't allow it! It's hard enough for my HO scale locos! I have a small O scale layout too and those locos are an absolute joy to fit sound to. Lots of space and room for a big speaker for incredible sound!

Very useful ron very interesting

Just getting into model RRing (N Scale). Thanks for the tips and videos. That’s a lot of extra work in addition to RRing!

True! Been using them for decades. I like the addition of the plastic wire nut.

Nice presentation. Thank you.

What number switch do you use..ty

Can this wiring method also apply to HO scale model trains? I'm trying to get in to the DCC aspect of model trains and I'm not quite sure what wires are best to use for the HO scale.

What a specific video...that being said, I did have this exact issue. Thanks!

i very new to this hobby, 2 months now i guess, but didn't realize how fast tracks get dirty, at slower speed i noticed the headlights flickering (im not buss wired) voltage drop i thought, checked for voltage drops none found, cleaned made a huge difference for a day or two, use the no ox id a special, admittingly i did use too much first time and lost traction on incline, my fault , cleaned track again and used very very little , no more issues for 2 weeks have not touched track since, Thank You Sir.

I know I've said it before but it's amazing how well you work with and scale products like that

Thank you for the update. Keep up the good work

Is your dummy loco unpowered?

Very nice thanks for the tour

Do you need to use sound from that website or can you take it from say a RUclips video? And can you change sound on a loco that already has sound?

I recently replaced my old soldering iron with a new one and coincidentally came across your video. I'm glad I watched it before using my new soldering iron. After following your advice, my new soldering iron still looks brand new, unlike my first one after its initial use. Thanks for making this very useful video!

QUESTION: Those of you who are applying No-OX, are any of you using keep-alive capacitors in your locomotives? I know N scale may be too small for these but I was wondering if this is different in HO?

Where Is that tinning solution available ?

Nice helix.

Nice work and thanks for the tips.

Okay, I have watched this video a few times in the past couple of weeks including today, and even purchased the supplies needed to do the same. 😁 Then today your video "How To Make Realistic Pine Trees" from 5 years ago popped up in my suggested list of videos I might be interested in. You mentioned in both videos that the Jute (5 years ago) twisted around the tree armature, and in that video, you had to comb the material. The process of making both types (Jute and Sisal) of trees was basically the same, I wonder if using the glue on the wire for the trees made of Jute may have caused the twisting? In the video using the Jute, you cut the fibers to different lengths ranging from about 1/2 inch to about 2 inches, but in this video, you cut the fibers to about 2 inches. Was the change in the lengths more of a convenience factor (easier handling) or was there another reason? In both videos and the furnace filter tree video, the trees look great, but for what it is worth I like the look of the Jute and Sisal trees better. Thanks for putting out your videos.

I haven't gotten to the point where I'm laying down corkbed and track on my new setup, but I am confused. You were saying to use the styro glue to glue that cork bed down. I've been watching others and they. say just to use the white glue and that includes gluing the track to the cork bed. Why use the styro glue?

I have a question for you. You were doing engage when you're talking about how much to elevate the track. I am setting up an entire Ho gage Layout and was wondering how much should I elevate the track on a 20 inch radius.. I find your videos very informative and looking forward to learning more

👍

[thank, you for you're great helpful video]👍

[thank you for you're great helpful video]👍

Question; what about the tree trunk? Is it left bare wire or is some kind of texture applied?

Im workingon Arduino code for crossover and wye interlockings and pannel board lights. I have yet to find a purpose build control that will control multiple switches in relation to each other.

Us lil bigger scale Dead Rail guys don't have to worry about any of it! LOL!!

I like your show . Can I keep follow up with you for some information.

Ron will the NO OX work on O gauge track as well.